The Duke and Duchess planted the surrounding hills with hundreds of thousands of trees to keep the outside world at bay and, as yet, the modern world has not penetrated this sylvan palisade

Ben Ruscombe-King
The Endsleigh Gardener
Photos by Tim Woodwards & Rebecca Castle
This year summer has come to Endsleigh as I remember it from childhood: long, hot days, though perhaps not quite as languorous as those of my youth. We are currently bathed in sunshine – looking out across the golden hay meadow to the Tamar below, where anglers languidly flick their rods in pursuit of elusive salmon; housemartins swoop over the lawns, pursuing invisible prey; flower-filled borders gently sway in the breeze whilst bees buzz from flower to flower, providing a gentle soundtrack to the scene. The picture has changed very little since the 6th Duke and Duchess of Bedford built their fishing lodge here in 1810. After completing the house they planted the surrounding hills with hundreds of thousands of trees to keep the outside world at bay and, as yet, the modern world has not penetrated this sylvan palisade.
The long hot summer days are not without their trials and tribulations, the lawn is certainly not as verdant as one would wish, though far greener, I am told, than those of the home counties. The lack of rain, the worst I’ve seen in my ten years at Endsleigh, has also helped to rekindle childhood memories, as I have found myself leaping into streams to build dams, in attempts to redirect water to where it is most needed. So far the attempts have been successful and the rills, waterfalls, cascades and fountains are all still providing the intended soundtrack to the garden, at this time of year more relaxing than energising. The stream at the base of the dell is lined with tunnels of gunnera offering shade from the sun, though the humidity in this weather is as jungle-like as the huge leaves of the gunnera itself. Royal ferns, treeferns, darmera, and hosta add to the scene and dragonflies and damoiselles darting from pool to pool do not disabuse one of this tropical illusion. On the banks above, a mixture of native and exotic plants vie for supremacy in a, perhaps too, naturalistic battle to the death. Bistorta amplexicaulis (Persicaria), Lythrum salicaria, Fillipendula ulmaria, Telekia speciosa, Lobelia speciosa and Valariana officianalis all bring colour to the valley whilst ferns cut back in June are re shooting to add a freshness to the parched landscape.

The roses have revelled in the hot summer, putting on their main show several weeks earlier than expected and although they are undoubtedly past their best, they are still pushing forth blooms – one can still catch their heady scent during a postprandial stroll, under the shade of the rose arch. The heat has had similar effects on other plants and some of the heralds of autumn are already coming into flower, tricyrtis, sedum, perovskia, caryopteris and ceratostigma are all blooming whilst adding to the already vibrant showing of the summer stalwarts, Eutrochium, Helenium, Bistorta, Acanthus, Sidalcea, Knautia, Verbena, Salvia, Agapanthus et al. There are some signs of stress in the tree canopy with some of the Acers beginning to show some colour and Aralia sinensis colouring up even earlier than usual. Not good for the trees but some early autumn colour for us and they’ll recover once the rain returns.
The parterre offers some respite from the sun, a tranquil retreat in the shade with a fountain and spouting lions’ heads feeding a gently trickling rill. The geometric beds this year are planted with Salvia horminium in blue, pink, purple and white dotted with a few castor oil plants to add a touch of drama to the peaceful scene. This cool, calm space is – this year more than ever – reminiscent of the islamic gardens of sunbaked southern Spain and North Africa, albeit more outward facing: a tranquil spot to escape the sun, enjoy afternoon tea, an aperitif, or simply to indulge in a bit of quiet contemplation.
Endsleigh has 21 rooms each individually designed with uncluttered elegance. Plan a stay from £335 per night including breakfast.